Life on the Mekong and Other Rivers

Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this blog, including strong statements in support of weinerdog-riding monkeys, are our own, and not those of the U.S. Department of State or the U.S. government.

Saturday, November 26, 2005

Thanksgiving Adventure

So our plan was to go Khammouane Province for thanksgiving to the Kong Lor cave, a 7.5 KM long cave with a river running through it.

But I've never really recovered from when I was sick before, and woke up Thursday feeling particularly bad, with some other weird pains in my chest, which freaked me out. Anyway, a quick trip to the Australian clinic resulted in a trip to Bangkok to get further checked out.

Stens and Ford decided to go along, so we all piled into the car and went to Udon Thani for the flight.

Of course, prior to that, a check by the Australian doc confirmed that I wasn't currently dying of massive heart failure, that I had bronchitis or early pnuemonia (or, in a surprising twist when the doc mentioned it, TB (turned out not to be TB)), and that a trip to BKK for further tests was the way to go.

Katherine and I spent Friday at the BKK Embassy clinic and Bumrungrad Hospital. And if you need medical care in Bangkok, I recommend Bumrungrad. I got a stress test, X-rays, an eye exam (because we were there with time to kill), and some sort of scope to see that I didn't have some sort of atypical acid reflux. That came with general anestesia, which was nice. But I guess they were trying to save a little, because I didn't get enough. Woke up during the procedure; small camera on a big black cord (correct word usage) down my throat. Not pleasant.

Anyway, I'm fine and healthy, with no acid reflux and a strong heart (and a slightly changed glasses prescription), and bronchitis or early pneumonia that has been hanging around for about 5 weeks. We had a great time, even though I was pretty down for the count for much of the time. I at least had enough energy for a massage and for some lounging poolside at the Four Seasons.

Now we're back. Tomorrow is the big WIG (women's int'l group) Bazaar, so Katherine will be busy with that, and I'll be serving coffee at the US Embassy Booth from 2 to 3 pm.

If you are lucky, I'll put some pictures of my throat and stomach up on the web soon.

Saturday, November 19, 2005


Chilies drying in the sun


Random Nam Ou picture #4


Random kid picture


Random Kid Picture


Random Kid Picture


Random Nam Ou picture #3 (plus Ari)


Random Nam Ou picture #2


Random Nam Ou River Shot

Visitors come calling

We've just wrapped up a fantastic 10 days or so with SIPA friends. Ari and Jennine arrived November 6. We spent a few days in Vientiane, with Ari and Jennine taking themselves around town during the day, and hanging out during the night. We headed to Luang Prabang on Wednesday, then further North the next morning. A couple days on the Nam Ou brought us to Luang Prabang, where we met up with Geoffrey and Melissa.

Of course, by that point, our camera battery died, so we have no proof that the 6 of us were all together. But we were. I promise.

Ari and Jennine left Monday morning, and Geoffrey and Melissa moved into the role of visitors that run around town during the day. Unfortunately, and fortunately, they spent much of Monday figuring out how to leave. They couldn't leave Tuesday, as planned, because of a ticketing thing. So they figured out how to leave, on Thursday. So they were able to stay for Tat Luang and had plenty of chance to just relax, which was probably good for them, and was great for us, as we had more chance to hang out with them.

Anyway, pictures below. As always, I've tried to put them in chronological order to an extent, but some are completely out of wack.

And now Stens and Ford are here. And we're really not happy about it. We don't like them.


negotiating for the boat in Nong Khiaw. I had done this previously with my dad, so I was in a better position to negotiate hard. In the end, we got a pretty good price.


Phil and Ari, on the boat.


High Art. Here I am brushing my teeth in our $5 a night luxury palace in Muang Ngoi (yes, the town where my dad and I stayed for a $1. Katherine is really a prima donna, making us stay at the most expensive place in town). Anyway, electricity is turned off at about 10:00, so I was brushing my teeth by headlamp light...and yes, I had a couple beers before deciding this was going to be a great picture.


All dolled up and ready to go give stuff to monks.


Melissa was sleepy. We did get up at 5:45 am to get here by 6:30.


A line of monks waiting for alms from the people while some monk somewhere talks over the loud speaker. Tat Luang is in the background.


But the most holy day of Buddhist Laos can't interrupt chatting with your homies, even if you are a monk.


Tat Luang Festival. Hundreds, if not thousands, of monks from around the country, and thousands of Lao who come in the morning to give alms to those monks.


Floating Restaurant, Wednesday (Tat Luang Festival, a day off for us). We wouldn't have been able to do this together had Goeffrey not screwed up on their tickets, thus extending their visit by 36 hours.


I don't have any pictures of all 6 of us together as our camera died before we made it to Luang Prabang, but anyway, we had a lovely time all together. Here is a very artistic picture of Goeffrey and Melissa (and my ear) in the car.


Okay, this is the best I could do to show her dancing. She's doing the traditional Lao Lamvong dance. Her name was Phang, and she was very cute.


The girl on the left was just about the cutest girl in the world. During the rain, she repeatedly tried to sneak over to where we were sitting under the village head man's roof, only to run screaming and laughing back to her mom when I would look at her. Then she went into the middle of the village and danced for me, which was very cute. Unfortunately, the picture of her dancing is too dark.


Some village girls (and Jennine) staying out of the rain.


It started raining when we arrived in Jope Jam. Once the rain stopped, the village started bustling again.


Our view from our scrabble table, prior to sunset.


A spot of scrabble by candlelight (and generator-driven light bulbs)


Hanging out in Muang Ngoi Kaaw


The intrepid exlorers


Katherine and Jennine on the boat on the Nam Ou


Ari, Jennine and Katherine and Phil. On the riverbank of Sop Jam village (I used to think it was Job Jam, but, for the first time in my life, I was wrong).

Friday, November 18, 2005

And the revolving door continues...

Geoffrey and Melissa are gone, having spent an extra day and a half here because Geoffrey is really dumb and bought tickets that would have landed them in Vietnamese immigration prison had they tried to fly Tuesday to Hong Kong via Hanoi.

Okay, maybe not prison, but probably would have resulted in a 24 hour stay in the international departures area of the Hanoi airport, which would likely have been just as bad.

Anyway, it allowed us to spend about 36 more hours with them, which was great. We put them on the plane in Vientiane Thursday at 7:00 am, went to work, drove to Udorn, and picked up Stens and Ford.

So now they're the ones smelling up our house.

Gotta run and interview some lovely Lao people.

Pictures up from Ari, Jennine, Geoffrey and Melissa sometime this weekend.

Monday, November 14, 2005

Ari, Jennine and Geoffrey and Melissa and Katherine and Me

Long time, no post.

Ari and Jennine are here and gone. They left this morning.

Goeffrey and Melissa were planning to be here until tomorrow, but a scheduling snafu has them here until Thursday morning, so they will get the pleasure of the Tat Luang Festival on Wednesday.

Good weekend in Luang Prabang all together, although we were witness to a Lao crazy person's outburst...and it was directed at us. A story for another time.

Suffice it to say, when a hotel doesn't honor a reservation (as happened when we arrived in LP on Wednesday), not a big deal...when we don't show up two days later for a reservation that we canceled with an employee the previous day, and said employee doesn't tell the boss, and the boss sees us at the spa that night and learns that we will not be staying at said hotel...big f*ing deal...at least to the completely batshit crazy hotel owner boss.

Long story short, a foot massage isn't as relaxing when someone is repeatedly yelling that you are the devil.

Tuesday, November 08, 2005

Friendly competition

Post from Katherine:
I just got a FABULOUS care package from my friend Wendy. It was full of delicious treats like jelly beans, cookies, chips, Pez candy, scone mix, gnocci and much much more. It is a wonder that Wendy finds time to send packages. She's just given birth to a healthy beautiful daughter, Veronica, she has an adorable son Gus (age 1+), her own business (Blue Pencil), and even with all that to juggle, she still finds the time to send her friend in Laos a care package. Now that is love!

Saturday, November 05, 2005

Handicraftapalooza 2005...Catch the Fever!!!!!

Well, you will all be jealous when you hear that this weekend is the International Lao Handicraft festival at the local convention center. And the answer is yes, I will be spending the bulk of my free time there poring over the tables and tables of handicrafts.

Oh, what a wonderful world we live in, where a man like me can proudly proclaim his love of handicrafts without fear of persecution.

Unfortunately, Katherine left for the International Lao Handicraft festival about 45 minutes, and somehow I forgot to get in the car. Sadly, I'm unable to figure out any other way to get to there. Woe is me, who will appreciate all the handicrafts in my absence? I would have appreciated the hell out of those handicrafts.

And yes, there is a Ministry of Industry and Handicrafts in Laos. Tells you a bit about Laos' industrial base.

Tonight we're heading out to a new bar with some friends. I'm told it has a good pool table, which is sorely needed in this town.

Ari and Jennine are en route as we speak (or as I type, but that's not really true either, as they aren't leaving until sometime in the next few hours) and Geoffrey and Melissa are en route to Hanoi, arriving to meet the four of us next Friday in Luang Prabang.

Friday, November 04, 2005

A window into our lives...

We are deep thinkers, and very much in Love, as you can see from this series of e-mails.

Reading bottom up will reveal our true glory.


From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
Whatever…

From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
I’m posting this conversation on our website. It’s pure gold.

From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
I’m sleepy today…

Don’t forget to eat your cheese before it gets too warm.


From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
No, YOU’ll have to watch animal planet

From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
We’ll have to watch animal planet and see.



From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
I’m talking about a lion and a badger, jerk.

From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
Now, now, you are division three, my friend, and the Badgers are division ONE! Do you seriously think you could take on the Badgers in hockey????


From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
Could kick a badger’s ass.

From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
Okay, that’s pretty good.

From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19

Lion

From: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19

And what is your mascot?


From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
Oles.

Ollies, sheesh.


From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
I meant to say ”Leave you St. Olaf (Ollies) alone”

From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
What?

From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
Okay so I’ll do it and give you Ollies alone…


From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
cool

From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
It is $75 for 4 hours of work….

From: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS) To: Nervig, Katherine D ((CLO)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
For now we are. It’s the first Saturday that Ford and Stens are here. They will likely go to LP on Sunday.

From: Nervig, Katherine D (CLO) To: Nervig, Phillip B (CONS)Subject: RE: Saturday November 19
Are we here on November 19? I’ve just been asked to procter the Toefel exam~!

Tuesday, November 01, 2005

An inappropriate request, if you ask me

I received a letter from an immigrant visa applicant explaining about quite a large discrepency (or lie might be a better word, or series of lies may be a more apt description). At the end, the applicant states "Your blindly favorable consideration in this will be very appreciated."

Now, I'm not even sure what a 'blindly' favorable consideration is, but it sounds like I'd be shirking my consular duties if I acquiesced to her wishes. Maybe the previous sentence in the affidavit will shed some light on what she means...

"Actually, on the date of my first interview I misunderstood your Excellency A guest Here fire, I swear I used to go to USA under Mrs. Name LAST NAME."

Okay.

I think I'll give her my blindly favorable consideration on this one.

Also today I got a letter in support of a monk's visa application that stated he was the "President of Buddhism." Again, not sure how someone even gets elected President of Buddhism, but I was duly impressed. Now I've just got to meet the Prime Minister of Judaism and my quest to meet the leaders of world religions will be complete, seeing as I sat between the King of the Christianity and the Emir of Hinduism on a flight to Chicago last year.